there is a storm off the coast,
and it is bringing in a small swell.
I like being at the beach early,
all by myself. bought a new (used)
surfboard to see if I still got it.
my senior year of high school
I skipped many days,
heading to the beach to surf
for a few hours or periods,
returning at lunchtime
to be counting as present
and go to the classes I liked.
I got a couple closeouts,
saw a small shark, sat out
there, bobbing in the ocean,
as the rain came in;
there's lightning on the horizon,
but it's not near, not yet.